![]() ![]() Several other industries have rate cards, which offer guidance to freelancers and employers on minimum pay rates, helping to standardise pay and improve transparency, says Yann Allsopp, organising official of the British trade union Bectu. A few respondents also pointed to the cancellation of weddings, proms and other occasions that had previously offered a supplementary income outside of the fashion industry.Ĭompanies could extend HR, finance or tech support services to freelancers, suggests Jodi Muter-Hamilton, founder of consultancy Other Day and currently working on a report about creating better freelancer environments. The cancellation of travel and international fashion events during the pandemic played a significant role in reducing freelance opportunities. Some supplemented their income with hospitality or retail jobs to cover basic living expenses. In the survey of freelancers, Vogue Business found that many had been asked to work for free or “exposure”. To overcome this, Mensitieri says, “We should build another dream that transforms the idea of what is successful and glamorous, that re-enchants the idea of stability and collective goals.” Lack of opportunities, barriers to access She says that fashion is upheld by the illusion of “the dream”: if you can first endure hardships and free labour, you’ll be awarded on the other side by a glamorous role. Giulia Mensitieri is an anthropologist and author of The Most Beautiful Job in the World, which exposed a culture of exploitation across the industry. The most common issues included the irregularity of work, extreme pressure and stress, clients cancelling jobs with no notice or compensation, and ageism. Among the reasons cited by respondents were: fewer freelance opportunities, lack of contract clarity, poor pay, lack of supplemental jobs, uncertainty with clients and late payments. Of the respondents, 66 per cent said their financial situation had been unstable during the pandemic, compared to 19 per cent before the pandemic. ![]() Vogue Business surveyed 549 Vogue Business Talent subscribers in March - 192 of whom identified as freelancers working with fashion brands globally - to find out how, over a year into the pandemic, their work loads and mental health have fared. Ironically, I was working on luxury fashion but I couldn’t even afford a pair of shoes or a new coat.” ![]() “For the first two years of freelancing, I was living hand to mouth. “Month to month or week to week, nothing is guaranteed,” she says. Nicky Pasterfield, an artist who hand-paints bespoke florals on everything from dresses to blankets for brands, says there is a dichotomy specific to fashion freelancing that has taken a toll on her mental health. To receive the Vogue Business newsletter, sign up here. ![]()
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